Of course, I had to watch shutter time as well, because even though the moon’s movement is barely noticeable, motion blur will show up in your pictures if you overdo it; I never exceeded 1 second exposure. As for aperture, it depends on the technique. If you shoot the whole scene for every frame (which I originally did), you need to stop down your lens obviously. However, if you take a shot of the scene and then focus on the moon solely, because you’re going to blend it together in Photoshop later on anyway, then you can actually shoot at max aperture with focus set to infinity as long as you keep the moon in the center of the image: Aberration, distortion and the like will be strongest near the edges of the frame.
During a total lunar eclipse, Earth completely blocks direct sunlight from reaching the Moon. The only light reflected from the lunar surface has been refracted by Earth’s atmosphere. This light appears reddish for the same reason that a sunset or sunrise does: the Rayleigh scattering of bluer light. Due to this reddish color, a totally eclipsed Moon is sometimes called a blood moon.
This latter technique has one more thing going for it: You can pick your longest lens once you captured the rest of the scene and get a lot more detail in the moon than you would have with a wide angle or standard lens, giving you the option to do something totally different from the scene you’re shooting on top of that.
The next day I arrived early at my chosen location. I had decided to shoot where I could get some light trails while pointing the camera in the direction of where I presumed the moon would appear. With still an hour to go I started taking pictures of said light trails with the scene slowly darkening around me.